Monday, February 10, 2020

DAY 9 - NORFOLK ISLAND


Day 9 – Sunday 12th JANUARY 2020.
Ian and Kathy awoke earlier this morning and decided to go for a walk down onto Anson Bay Beach.  It is quite a hike down the side of the cliff so the drove their car down to the reserve.  They had a little trouble getting in there as the cows were all over the road and not in a hurry to move and let them into the car park.
Cows all over the road
Beautiful Anson Bay
Down on the beach at Anson Bay
On the beach at Anson Bay
Back up the top again....
The track to the beach is well kept and zig zags down the side of the cliff.  The ocean was pretty calm this morning, and with the sun out, the water just sparkled and shone and displayed all the beautiful shades of blue and green which this bay is renowned for…


It took them a good hour and 15 minutes to do the walk, and then they came home and we all had breakfast together whilst we planned the rest of the day
 
We left home just after 9am to head to the “100 Acres Reserve” to do the walk down to Rocky Point through this lovely forest.  The walk was lovely, we started at the southern end of the walk.  There are some magnificent Morton Bay Figs in the forest here also and we had a little play in them and took some photos…
The bird life here this morning was prolific… I can only begin to imagine what it would have been like earlier in the morning,   It seemed we were always stopping to take photos of some bird or other…  The amazing thing is that you could get quite close to them which meant we got some pretty good shots…

I am totally surprised at the number and variety of birds on Norfolk Island.  We had even managed to see the Norfolk Island Parrot us where we live, several mornings in a row and they are on the endangered species list.

This walk took us through several different sorts of vegetation from open clearings through rainforest, and lightly timbered areas and it is a walk I would definitely recommend.  We didn’t manage to do it last time we were here so I am glad that we managed to do it this time..

As we approached Rocky Point, we noticed lots of Tropic Birds which were nesting on the cliff tops.  These birds are quite distinct with a long red feather coming out of their tails.  Nothing was going to move these mother off their nests, so we were able to get in real close and get some awesome shots of them.  The cliff edge was also dotted with lots of Mutton Bird nests (holes in the ground).  Steve even managed to spot a mutton bird in one of the nests and took a photo.  It wasn’t the best, as all you could see was a little round ball of feathers…
Broken eggs along the track....
Tropic birds sitting on their eggs.
The tropic bird in flight....
Mutton bird in it's nest
Mutton bird nests are all over the Point..
 The view from the lookout here was really beautiful.  With the sun out, the water was a vibrant blue and so clean and clear and with our polarised sunglasses on we could see right down onto the ocean floor.
This walk is a loop walk, and on our walk back to the car park, we came across lots of Noddy’s (black bird) which were nesting in the trees near the ocean… 
Up to the top of the stairs...

We found several of their eggs that had fallen out of the trees, and if you looked up into the branches, there nests were scattered everywhere.  You could even see the mother bird’s tails fanned out over the edge of the nests.

 It was close to 11.30 when we arrived back to the car.  We decided that whilst we were out this way that we would drive over a couple of the roads we hadn’t yet been on in this area as well as go and grab a photo of “The Arches” which are the remains of the old Convict settlement stables.  On our way to photograph these we placed a little wooden building that was once a corner store for the early Pitcairn settlers…
One of the early corner stores on the island for the Pitcairn settlers.
"The Arches" - Heritage listed, the old stables from the Penal Settlement days.
By now everyone was looking for a toilet stop so we headed back into town to find the public toilets.  Once we had done that it was time for some lunch.  Being a Sunday there was not much opened on the island.  

This is one of the things that I love about Norfolk Island, life here is what I remembered it to be like when I was growing up.  Shops all close at lunch time on a Saturday and they do not open on Sundays as Sundays are a day of rest.  The shops are even closed on a Wednesday afternoon too. 


We noticed to Café’s opened in Burnt Pine, as we were parked in front of the “Golden Orb Bookshop and Café” we decided to check it out first.  It is an interesting little café as it is not right on the street, it is tucked away and you enter it by walking down through gardens.  The placed looked lovely and there were quite a few in there already enjoying the serenity and good food.  We liked the look of the place and decided to have lunch here….

 

There outdoor eating area

 The meal was beautiful and well-priced… Kathy had the Golden Orb Pie with salad.  It turned out to be  a huge home made beef pie with huge hunks of beef in it and the salad was the best we have had on the island with so many varieties of home grown vegetables, including lettuce, rocket, capsicum, cucumber, carrot, beetroot, zucchini, corn, tomato, rockmelon, onion and alfalfa sprouts… It was also served with a lovely dressing.  Steve and I chose the seafood crepe and salad… again this was beautiful as it was filled with freshly caught seafood and we had a similar salad.  The meal was huge with two crepes and only cost $19.  Ian enjoyed the Pork and salad panini.  All of this was served with fresh pineapple juice for Ian, Kathy and I and a hot chocolate for Steve.  We enjoyed our lunch and Kathy bought a book about Norfolk Island from their bookshop..
Kathy's lunch
Massive home made pie - packed with beef and goodness
Ian's lunch
Our lunch
My share of lunch.  loaded with prawns and seafood...

After lunch we decided to head back down to Kingston to wander around the Cemetery.   We decided to go down via Rooty Hill Road so that we could stop off at the Queen Elizabeth lookout and enjoy the views again...  It was such a beautiful day,  plenty of sunshine and blue skies....

Looking down on the cemetery -
Great views of Phillip and Nepean Islands.
I remember finding this really interesting last time we were here… I think the others could have taken or left a visit here, but it is such a peaceful burial spot right next to the water and I was keen to walk around and ponder about the hardships and lives of folk living on Norfolk back in the early days of settlement.
Life was tough here, there are so many families that lost not one but two of more children back in those days, some only months old, some 2, some 5 or 6 and some even 9.  I am not sure what they died from, but I can only imagine how these poor folks felt and I would have to wonder whether the isolation would have contributed to that.  I also felt for the families of a lot of the early settlers in the penal settlement era also who lost love one’s to Norfolk Island.   



A lot of the young men who died here were only in their 20’s or early 30’s.  Their tombstones read that they were citizens of London or Dublin or other far away places.  How their families must have grieved for their son’s and daughters dying so young and being buried on far away shores…   Life was very tough in those early years….  Lots dying from drowning… the seas around here are so unpredictable… having come from England, it would have seemed that this place was harsh and cruel…  How thankful I am that I didn’t live in that era of history
.

Some interesting facts about the cemetery is that the present Norfolk Island Cemetery is believed to have been established during the Island's second settlement in the 1820s. Before then burials occurred in various places on the island and the cemeteries used during the first settlement are no longer evident. Nevertheless, headstones and their inscriptions dating from 1792 are to found here, the early ones probably removed from their original locations and remounted on the current cemetery site. Other headstones from the original cemeteries are believed to have been re-used.

The causes of death recorded on many of the stones reflect the harsh life of the colonial days, including many drownings, accidents and even executions. Amongst them are the graves of many of the descendants of the Bounty mutineers who moved from Pitcairn Islands to Norfolk Island in 1856. Considerable restoration of many of the older stones has obviously taken place in recent years.

One of the other things I noticed about these very old headstones was that quite a lot of them contained verses of scripture from the bible about the afterlife.

One of the first grave’s I found as I walked through the cemetery was Colleen McCullough’s headstone.  She was a famous Australian author who wrote among many of her famous books, “Tim” and “The Thorn Birds” who relocated with her husband Rick to Norfolk Island for the last 20 or more years of her life. 
Her tombstone was very plain and simple not like a lot of the other tombstones here. 

One of the things I notice about a lot of the headstones of more recent deaths in Norfolk, is that they list the names of not only the spouse on the headstone but also their children, grandchildren and In some cases even the great grandchildren.  This is not something you see back home.
One of the other places I was keen to show Ian and Kathy was the Murderous Mound. 
Twenty-six convicts implicated in the revolt were placed on trial; twelve were hanged in two groups of six each on 13 October 1846 for their part in the "Cooking Pot Riot" which took place in the prisoners mess.  They were buried in an old sawpit on the eastern side of the Cemetery in what is now know as "Murderers' Mound.  The men were purposely buried in unconsecrated ground in a mass grave just outside the Eastern Fence of Kingston Cemetery.  The mound is still visible there today...
Ian reading about Murderous Mound
Murderous Mound
Beach at Cemetery Bay - Norfolk Island
From the cemetery we drove around towards Emiily Bay to go for a walk around Government house and check out the beautiful big Norfolk Pine tree planted in the grounds of Government House.  It is the most beautiful and majestic tree and would make the best Christmas Tree.  I think from recollection that it is the larges Norfolk Pine on the island.   The girth would have taken at least 6 to 7 people handing hands around the tree…



Government House
Found this little egg on the ground near where I was sitting....
The most majestic tree down near Government House - Norfolk Island
Some perspective on the size of the Norfolk Pine... See Steve on the LH side...
The grass around here was very green and lush and to walk though it was like walking on cushions.  I am pleased we managed to get back here and check it out.  As we were driving along Bounty Street towards the oceanfront we noticed a group of Artists sitting painting the scenery in front of them.  I would have loved to snap a photo of them, but didn’t.  What a lovely way to spend a Sunday afternoon. 

 
Emily Bay was packed with people swimming and having picnics.  There is something to be said about having Sunday as a day or rest.  It certainly is a big encouragement to a strong family life….

After we left the grounds at Government House we headed back to the Civil Hospital ruins.  We haven’t checked out the ruins so much this time as we spent a lot of time in them reading all the signage last time we were here.  We have concentrated more on the walks and the beautiful nature and scenery of Norfolk Island this trip.
Civil Hospital
I do remember that last time we were here, there were lots of signage around the ruins for you to be able to read and get a real grasp of what life was like in the early penal settlements.  In particular there were signs in all the rooms of the civil hospital telling you what rooms they were eg. Dissecting room, morgue… This trip all those signs are missing which is rather sad, as reading them last time made the whole area come alive…  Steve wandered around the goal area and found the same there…. All signage is now missing.  It was quite disappointing.
After we wandered around the precinct there, Steve went for a walk up to the top of Flagstaff Hill where the views were amazing.  Probably slightly better than even the view we had on our 4x4WD tour as he could look right down onto the convict ruins in Kingston without his view being obscured. 
By now it was after 4.30pm and we had been out in the sun all day.  We were all keen to have a cuppa so we headed back home to just chill out.
We enjoyed a cuppa together and then all played a game of 5 crowns for the next hour or more.  

We had dinner in tonight.  Our last fish meal from all the fish that Steve caught when he went out fishing earlier in the week.  We also need to finish off our food supplies as we only have a couple of days on the island left.
Our last fish meal
My meal
Hawaiian Passionfruit.  Slightly more tangy than we are used to....
My desert
Steve's desert
The meal was delicious and looked and tasted as good as any meal we have had on the island this week.  That is saying something because all our meals have been amazing…

We enjoyed a lovely evening just sitting around the table and chatting to well after 9.30pm.  

 Ian and Kathy retired not long after dinner.  I needed to do a load of washing, and as we had planned an early morning start the following morning to do the walk from Mt Pitt down to Captain Cook Memorial park, I wanted to get it done and, on the line, tonight before going to bed…

It was almost midnight before we finally climbed into bed. 

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