Moving
closer to Perth, we have decided to spent the night in Lancelin and do a day
trip from here out to New Norcia. It was
either Lancelin or Guilderton but the accommodation at Lancelin was at least
$15 a night cheaper and it was right on the beach. It was a council run park and a little tired
but it had lovely hot showers and plenty of water and the bonus was that we had
ocean views, even if the weather was cold and windy.
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Thong Tree in Lancelin |
We didn’t
divert down any side roads today but headed straight to Lancelin which means we
arrived around lunch time. No
sightseeing this afternoon either as we have pretty much be on the go for days
and it was nice to just have an afternoon to chill out. Steve went for a walk down along the beach to
the jetty. He also took his rod down to
the beach later in the afternoon to throw in a line… no success today. (I think
it was way to windy).
Ian and
Kathy also went for a late afternoon walk.
I had a nap and then spent some time trying to get my blog up to
day. I don’t think I have been on top of
it since we were in Broome.
Meals are
still being held indoors as it is way to cold to sit outside. We didn’t have a late night as we needed to
be up early the following morning an gone by 8am for our drive to New
Norcia. They do a town tour at 11am and
we wanted to make sure we were there for that.
New Norcia was about 130kms from where we were staying, so although it
was only an hour and a half journey, we wanted a little extra time up our
sleeves so that we could stop if we saw anything that interested us along the
way, since we were doing a lot of driving off the main highways. We also needed to stop and get some
fuel. Steve with the help of fuel maps
had found a service station at Windmill Roadhouse that was selling diesel for
118.9cpl, some of the cheapest we have
come across so far.
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Some rather nifty gates we saw leading into a property on our drive this morning. |
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The Windmill Roadhouse had these parking meters installed. |
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We saw emus on our way this morning also. |
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Fueling up at the Windmill Roadhouse. |
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The drive to
New Norcia was magical, the wildflowers never
cease to amaze us in their colour and coverage of the highways and hills, and
once again we were in awe of the fields and fields and roadsides ablaze with
colour. In places they were like giant
purple carpets covering the hills.
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More wildflowers growing by the side of the road. |
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the hills were covered in colour |
We
stopped on several occasions to take photos.
In fact a couple of times, I almost felt like closing my eyes so that I
couldn’t be tempted to want to keep stopping and capturing the beauty. I must admit though, the photos do not do it
justice. They help you remind you of the
senses you experiences when seeing such beauty but they fail to capture what
you senses experience.
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New Norcia |
We arrived
in New Norcia just after 10am which gave us plenty of time to have a look
around before the tour of the Monastical town ( the only one in Australia)
started.
New Norcia was
founded in 1848 by two Spanish Benedictine monks, Bishop Rosendo Salvado and
Bishop Dom Joseph Serra who travelled to Australia to set up missions. They
were granted 7,500 hectares of freehold land which they developed into the New
Norcia Mission and a profitable farm. Eventually becoming one of the most
successful missions in Australian history.
The
town was named after Norcia, a town in the Umbria Province of Northern Italy in
honour of the birthplace of the Order's founder, St Benedict.Salvado's original
idea was to create a self-sufficient town based on Christian ideals and
agriculture. In 1867 Bishop Salvado was appointed Abbot.
During the 1860's-70's the mission
flourished with the monks building a series of wells, breeding horses,
producing silk & olive oil and growing grapes, almonds, dates & carob. After developing his mission for over fifty years. When Salvado died in Rome in 1900,
the local aboriginals were inconsolable. So strong was their anguish, it is
said that they greatly influenced the decision to bring his body back from
Italy. Today Salvado's body lies in a tomb in the Abbey Church.
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Their bread is amazing... |
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Some of their balsamic vinegar |
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Their olive oil.. |
The entry
fee was pretty reasonable as it cost us $22.50 each ( that was with a
concession) and that entitled us to the 2 hour tour of the town, entrance to
both the Museum and the Art Gallery, and the rest of the day to wander as we
pleased.
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Just like my grandmothers |
Whilst
waiting for the tour to begin, we had a look through the Museum, and read about
the early days of New Norcia, and the Benedictine Monks. At one stage there were between 70 and 80
Benedictine monks living at New Norcia, but today the number is only 10, and
most of these are elderly in their 70’s and 80s. We did meek Dom Paul, a Benedictine monk who
was in his 30’s. He has a doctorate in
Music and is the musical director at New Norcia. He actually performed for us
in the Abbey Church on both the piano and the pipe organ.
Our tour
started at 11am, and our guide Gary first took us to the Abbey, we had to hurry to get there as he wanted us
catch one of the monks playing the piano and pipe organ, and I am so pleased we
did as Dom Paul was excellent and really gave us a performance, especially on
the Pipe Organ.
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Heading to the Abbey |
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Dom Paul gives us a small concert on the piano and the pipe organ |
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Heading to the Abbey |
The Pipe Organ arrive at
the Abbey when Dom Moreno, the Abbey Organist at the time was given a 1000
pound budget to purchase an organ in Germany when he went there to further his musical study. The
organ was designed in consultation with Dom Moreno and built in 1922 by Albert Moser
of Munich. It was displayed at the German trade exhibition in Munich in
1922 before it was dismantled, packed in 24 zinc–lined cases and shipped to
Australia, arriving at Fremantle on 21 April 1923. It was installed at
New Norcia from April to August 1923 by Dom Stephen Moreno, assisted by his
brother Dom Henry Moreno, Dom Boniface Gomez, Dom Vincent Quindos and an
aboriginal boy Harry Weston. The opening concert was given by Stephen
Moreno on Sunday 2 September 1923.
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Bishop Rosendo Salvado was bought back from Rome and buried in the Abbey |
After Dom Paul’s performance we had a look through the
Abbey, admiring the many paintings, and we were also introduced to displays of
art work that grace the walls of the abbey in particular, a form or art called
“sgraffito”.
In 1967 the
Benedictine community at New Norcia, Western Australia, commissioned a large
scale mural of the Stations of the Cross for the Church from the Czech-born
artist, Josef Kucík (1912–1993). This mural is unusual because it is executed
in sgraffito and extends beyond the traditional fourteen scenes to include
supplementary pictures, some of which are connected with the history of the
Benedictine Order in New Norcia. Sgraffito is a technique of wall decor,
produced by applying layers of plaster tinted in contrasting colours to a moistened surface.
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The Benedict Monks Coat of Arms |
Once we finished our tour inside the Abey it was out the front door where we had a good look at the outside of the church.
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the Abbey Church |
From the
entrance to the church you look straight down to the Gates of the Monastery and
that was our next port of call. As monks
still live there today, we did not go in but were given the details about the
building and in particular the gates.
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Looking down from the Abbey to the Monastery |
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The Monastery |
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One of the Monks cars |
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Monastery Gates |
Then it was
back across the paddock past the Olive Grove to the Education Centre where we visited the their Deep
Space Ground station where we saw a video which was informative in how New
Norcia was chosen to house one of the
world's largest antennae's. It was built near New Norcia by the European Space
Agency. Having visited the Carnarvon
Space and Technology Centre, which assisted NASA with placing men in space, it
was interesting to see the significant role Australia plays in the Space
Tracking and Exploration, world wide.
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Olive Groves |
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Heading towards the Education Centre |
We were
fortunate to be on site when they were running one of their printing workshops,
so we got to visit and see their old
printing press in operation.
Interestingly enough, we also found out where upper and lower case
letters come from. There are two boxes
that have all the alphabetical letters, the Capital Letters sit in a box above
the lowercase letters, hence the names upper and lower case. Of course I had to take a photo of the boxes.
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Upper and Lower Case |
The Flour
Mill was our next port of call, where we were able to see the old steam engine
that ran their milling machines. They
also had a big milling stone and several other machines that are used to
process the wheat into flour to use in the baking of the New Norcia bread they
are so famous for.
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One of the many wells in New Norcia |
The tour concluded with a visit to
both St Ildephonsus’ and St Gertrude’s Colleges, which are striking enough from
the outside but the highlight was discovering what awaited inside! We discovered, beautiful chapels with
interiors reminiscent of what you’d expect to find in the finest chapels in
Italy.
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St. Ildephonsus - New Norcia |
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St Ildephonsus Chapel |
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Ceiling |
Once we had been through the chapel we were taken to look through the old dormitories and school.
From St Ildephonsus, we walked across the paddock to St Gertrudes, the girls school and had a look through their chapel.
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St Gertrudes |
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Entrance to St Gertrude's Chapel |
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St Gertrude's Chapel |
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One of the angel children in this painting is an Aboriginal child. |
It was 1pm
by the time we finished our walking tour, and we were feeling a little thirsty
and hungry, so decided to head down to the New Norcia Hotel for lunch, and what
a lunch it was. Everything was fresh,
produce from the farm, bread baked by the monks, and lovely surroundings. The meals were huge, in fact so big that we
didn’t bother having dinner that night,
we were still too full to warrant eating again.
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New Norcia Hotel |
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Enjoying Lunch out together |
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Ian's lunch |
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Steve's lunch |
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Steve's lunch |
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Ian and Kathy |
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Steve and I |
Ian even managed to find a piano to have a tinker on..
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Ian enjoying a play on the piano. |
After lunch
we made our way back up to the Information Centre and Gift Shop to finish
looking through the Museum and Art Gallery.
New Norcia
Art Gallery houses one of the largest collections of moveable religious art in
Australia. There are paintings by Spanish and Italian Masters and contemporary
Australian artists, as well as gifts from the Queen of Spain and artefacts
tracing New Norcia's eclectic history.
It was well worth the visit.
They also
have a special piece of Raphael Art. The Raphael Room houses the
cartoon entitled, “Head of an Apostle”. This work is part of a larger scene
depicting the descent of the Holy Spirit at Pentecost. It was commissioned by
Pope Leo X in the 16th century along with a number of other preliminary works
which were then woven into tapestries in Brussels. The tapestry “Descent of the
Holy Spirit” currently hangs in the Capella Paolina in the Vatican. Over its
almost 60 years at New Norcia this painting has been given a number of
unofficial titles: Study in Distemper
and Head of St John the Baptist. This
painting is the only one of its kind in Australia – either in public or private
hands.
It was
probably 3.30pm before we were ready to leave New Norcia. Kathy had read about a very scenic drive that
took you down towards Toodyay, so we decided to drive the extra 50kms or more
and drive home this way.
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The scenery was pretty spectacular on the drive home also |
While the drive
was lovely through lovely green fields with cattle and sheep grazing, the
wildflowers on this stretch of the road were not as prolific as they were on
the drive this morning. We arrived home
just as the sun was setting.
It has been
a big day, but one we have all enjoyed
immensely. It was definitely worth the drive and I would
recommend it to anyone.
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